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I've been asked this question so many times... What does my hair need???
Have you been wondering whether your luscious locks are in need of some extra protein or moisture? It's time to put your detective hat on and find out with a simple yet effective wet stretch test! Understanding your hair's needs can be a game-changer in your hair care routine, leading to healthier and happier curls. It's something i focus on in every 'first step' appointment.
The Wet Stretch Test: Decoding Your Hair's Message
Have you noticed that your curls seem to be frizzy and brittle, or perhaps a mix of soft and bouncy with stringy ends? This could be your hair's way of communicating with you about its current state of health. The wet stretch test is a fantastic way to determine whether your hair craves protein or moisture based on its elasticity.
How to Perform the Test
Start by wetting hair with water.
Grab 10 strands of hair, wrap your fingers around them and gently tug on the wet hair strand – if it bounces around 30% and then returns to its original length with no bumps in the hair, your hair is well-balanced. However, if it stretches excessively and doesn't bounce back, or if it stretches and snaps it will need more protein. On the other hand, if it doesn't stretch at all or breaks immediately without a stretch, your hair is likely in need of moisture.
Why 10 strands? Because this gives you a truer picture, stretching one strand can often give misleading information.
Understanding Curl Porosity
Conducting a wet stretch test gives you better understanding of your hair's porosity and it is essential for tailoring your hair care routine effectively. Porosity refers to how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. There are three main types of porosity:
Low Porosity: Hair cuticles are tightly packed, making it difficult for moisture to penetrate. Products tend to sit on top rather than absorb, and you may have trouble with build up. Not many people have low porosity hair, I find mostly white haired clients.
Normal Porosity: This type of hair allows moisture to penetrate easily and retains it well. Your hair is likely smooth and shiny, with good elasticity.
High Porosity: Hair cuticles are raised, the hair is damaged and may look stringy, it may also take a long time to dry. you would need to focus on clean lightweight strong products.
Tailoring Your Hair Care Routine
Now that you've deciphered your hair's needs through the wet stretch test and understood its porosity type, it's time to adjust your hair care routine accordingly.
Protein: For protein-hungry hair, or highly porous hair opt for protein-rich treatments like masks or conditioners to strengthen your strands and improve elasticity, these will be called for "repair' or "nourishing". Look for key ingredients such as hydrolysed wheat protien, soy prodien or rice protien in the top half of a products ingredient list. Protein can only be added to the hair topically so ensure it's in as many products as possible.
Moisture Boost: Low porosity hair craves more moisture, so invest in hydrating products like deep conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and natural oils to lock in moisture and enhance shine. Moisture can only be added when washing the hair so ensure you really spend the time on washday fully hydrating your curls.
If you have tight curls or afro texture add a humectant gel alongside your strong hold gel will also ensure moisture is locke in. Look for key ingrediens such as aloe and honey to hold that moisture in.
Embrace Your Unique Curls
Remember, every curl is unique, so what works for one may not work for another. Experimenting with different products and techniques is key to finding what suits your curls best. Pay attention to how your hair responds and adjust your routine accordingly.
Your curly hair deserves all the love and care in the world. By conducting a simple wet stretch test and understanding your hair's porosity, you can unlock the secrets to healthier, more vibrant curls. So, the next time you're in doubt about what your hair needs, remember this handy test... Here's to happy, healthy curls!
Need more help with the curl routine? I offer one-to-one curl coaching whether your a client, student or stylist click here for more info
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